Pleat It!
Remembering Issey Miyake (1938-2022)
LEFT Top: Isha Nabar RIGHT Outfit: Isha Nabar
The pleat cannot be beat
On the cusp of professionalism and polish, the brink of movement and maturity, simultaneously representing longevity and versatility, is the fashion industry’s holy grail: the pleat. In terms of fabrication technique, the power of pleating cannot be underestimated.
In the days following the unfortunate passing of the fashion designer, Issey Miyake, the streets of New York City, Tokyo, and Paris were filled sidewalk-to-sidewalk with colorful, free-flowing pleated garments and archival Miyake pieces to commemorate the industry-shattering legacy of the fashion designer. Young creatives somberly donned their garments to honor the indescribable influence of Miyake. Found within the vibrant sea of pleats is a tribute to the trailblazing designer.
The plethora of aerodynamic pleats and their patronage may appear exclusive. But the pleat encourages dynamism and liberation through movement. The purpose is expression. Miyake once said, "The core spirit of Pleats, Please is joy, and what better emotion to wear your skin every day?” With a perspective that highlights radical joy and motion, one may see why Miyake’s uniforms resonated so heavily with the global youth.
LEFT Outfit: Isha Nabar RIGHT Top: Isha Nabar Pants: Celia Ding
Originally stemming from the Old English language of origin, the current utilization of “Plaits” or “Pleats” in contemporary and luxury fashion feels dramatically innovative, conceptual, and proudly Japanese due to the revolutionary contributions of Miyake. The stamina of pleats has never wavered, only growing stronger and continuing to evolve with pop culture.
The technical production of pleating had been mastered and patented by Miyake early in his career. The fabrication motif has transformed into an admired signature of the designer. First, the fabric is developed only from a single thread and sewn into the shape of the garment. This meticulous process is meant to emphasize the silhouette. In many cases, the fabric is bought in double to triple the intended size.
Dress: Chung Meng Ling Pants: Celia Ding
In terms of impact, pleats in streetwear and high fashion have lost no momentum since production began in the 1970s. In fact, a new wave of youthful patrons have adopted Miyake’s Signature pleats into their current wardrobes. From the streets of Tokyo to New York City, the pleat appeals to the experimental dresser as well as the streetwear enthusiast. Menswear clients, especially, have been drawn to the versatility and comfortability of Miyake’s pleats: as they are able to be worn in a spectrum of casual, creative, or even professional dress. The lightweight fabric promises liberation of body.
Pleats ensure an effortless, flattering silhouette. Unlike many other designer garments that require a high-maintenance caution, there is no dry-cleaning required in the care of a pleated garment. Along with the wrinkle-free character of the fabric, no steamer or iron is necessary with care. The garments can be air dried without creasing. Investing in a pleated garment means the garment is guaranteed to maintain its shape. The unconfined and futurist style of dressing appeals to the youth mindset, allowing for ease and movement. There are no difficult restraints or constricting materials. When dawning pleats, there is a democratic freedom wherein the body can move without the constraint that typically exists within luxury fashion and societal fashion standards.
There are moments in Miyake’s work that solidified his artistry within the fashion industry and pop culture. His Spring 1995 runway exemplifies the lightweight and playful characteristics of his pleating technique. The garments range from formal a-line to disk-shaped. The fantastical avant-garde pieces swirl onto the runway like a mirage of pastel flower petals. And like his designs, Miyake’s legacy started to bloom and blossom. His inventive fabrications are regarded as wearable art; select pieces currently reside in the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City.
The fashion industry will continue to hold a conceptual space for Miyake and his pleats. And its versatility adapts with new generations to come. Issey Miyake’s brand has solidified itself within the fashion industry and just like his signature pleats, Miyake’s legacy shall never crease.
Outfit: Chung Meng Ling
Videographer, Production and Set Dir: Luna Abreia
Graphic Designer: Jaiden Haynes
Editorial Dir: Nadia Adams
Senior Photo Dir: Phillip Lewis
Junior Photo Dir: Justice Tilford
Junior Fashion Dir: Brianna Tirado
Models: Drewe Goldstein, Kem Anderson
Photographer: Eva Deming
Stylist, Editor in Chief, Creative Dir: Pilar Bradley
Assistant Stylist: Surya Richman
Makeup Artist: Maddy McDonald
Hair Stylist: Danica Kiley
PA: Shayla Dell
Miyake, Issey. Issey Miyake. Pleats Please Issey Miyake. Autumn Winter 2022/23. isseymiyake .com/en/brands/pleatsplease. Accessed 5 October 2022.
Hine, Samuel. GQ. Issey Miyake’s Mensware Revolution was Pleated. 10 August 2022. gq.com/story/issey-miyake-homme-plisse-pleats. Accessed 5 October 2022.
Satran, Rory. The Wall Street Journal. Like Sweatpants, But Dressy: The Pandemic Rise of Issey Miyake Pleats Please. 4 June 2022. wsj.com/articles/issey-miyake-pleats-please-11654281572?no_redirect=true&mod=mhp. Accessed 5 October 2022.
The MET Museum. The Costume Institute. Issey Miyake Dress. 1999. metmuseum.org/ art/collection/search/692445
The Gloss. https://thegloss.ie/he-changed-the-way-we-look-at-fashion-tributes-flood-in-for-japanese-designer-isseymiyake/#:~:text=%E2%80%9CIssey%20Miyake%20once%20said%2C%20',and%20their%20own%20style%20credentials.
