Precisely Punk

Remembering Vivienne Westwood (1941-2022)

*Dress:* *RayDots* *Bag:* *Graciela & Grace*

The ultimate anarchist in the U.K., Vivienne Westwood was the pioneer of punk fashion. A rebel with a cause, Westwood used the power of art and fashion to influence the global political landscape, all whilst adorned in tartan and tweed.

“The only reason I’m in fashion is to destroy the word conformity,” said Westwood in her 2014 documentary series Painted Ladies. “Nothing is interesting to me unless it’s got that element.”

The fashion mogul’s death was felt around the world this past December. An array of roses from those mourning was placed outside the New York City flagship store, and across the Atlantic, memorial services were held in London. Her final words were left in the form of a to-do list addressed to her son, “stop war, stop climate change, and end capitalism.”

Precisely punk, Westwood got her start in the 1970s designing for British band, the Sex Pistols. With an unconventional style sense, she broke the boundaries of fashion and defined the punk rock movement with her iconoclastic sexually and politically charged designs.

*Outfit:* *CoolGirl Clothes Co.* *Shoes:* *NY 77 Design*

Controversial at the time but mainstream now– it was Westwood who introduced aspects of BDSM into fashion, with her usage of chains, safety pins, fetish pieces, and bondage suits. Most memorable of her early designs is the God Save the Queen t-shirt (1977), which features Queen Elizabeth with a safety pin through her lips.

With a background as a school teacher, Westwood’s fashion education strayed far from traditional. The designer was unique in her technique and did not utilize patterns or drawings. British dandyism was intertwined with French proportions and tailored to suit a new age of fashion. Materials ranged from latex to bleached chicken bones. Eccentric and eclectic became the pillars of the Vivienne Westwood image.

As her name became synonymous with the London punk scene of the 20th century, her fashion was commercialized. Her designs were first sold in a Kings Road, London boutique shop, now titled World’s End. Owned by Malcom Mclaren– then manager of the Sex Pistols and an eventual partner of Westwood’s– the shop became a haven for misfits and the epicenter of punk fashion.

In 1981, the designer released her first Fall ready-to-wear collection titled the Pirate Collection. It captured the post-punk New Order era of fashion, which cultivated a new attitude from Vivienne’s previous works. Androgyny was at the forefront of the unisex collection creating a New Romantic soft and fluid look.

The famous Vivienne Westwood orb logo was created shortly afterwards in 1986. While in Italy working with Elio Fiorucci, Vivienne was creating a collection focused on royalty and futurism. Inspired by British insignia and astronomy, Westwood combined the orb found on the crown of jewels with the ring of Saturn, giving birth to her iconic logo.

On the catwalk, Westwood came to be known for making political statements over the years. Models could be seen strutting in provocatively worded t-shirts or holding politically charged signs down the runways, with statements such as “Austerity is a crime” and “Fracking is a crime” (seen at the summer/spring 2016 Red Label collection). Models were even transformed into climate change zombies and dressed accordingly in garments, at the Red Label spring/summer 2014 show.

Westwood’s rebellious nature transcends her designs. Aside from designing, Westwood spent much of her time as an activist and at protests, with a primary focus on environmental issues. In 2015, Westwood climbed on top of a military grade tank and rode it to, then, Prime Minister David Cameron’s house in defiance of the government’s fracking plans.

Punk protest was a pattern throughout Vivienne’s life. Even while being awarded an O.B.E, the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire, in 1992 by Queen Elizabeth; Westwood took the opportunity to cause chaos. Dressed in a gray skirt suit, she went to pick up her award and twirled for the photographers– revealing her lack of knickers. When asked about the event Vivienne told reporters, “I heard that the picture amused the Queen”, according to UKMirror.

Other awards the fashion icon achieved during her career were British Designer of the Year (1990 and 1991), the Swarovski Award for Positive Change at the Fashion Awards (2018), and Glamour’s Award for Environmental Gamechanger (2021).

Despite amassing stardom and success, Vivienne Westwood stayed true to her roots. Her punk spirit never ceased and her desire to create, challenge, and change remained core values to both her and the Vivienne Westwood label. A revolutionary, Westwood changed the fashion industry, and her impact will continue to inspire generations of creatives.

Her final message to the public, “when in doubt, dress up!” sent on her memorial service invitation.