Friend or Faux?
The unfashionable debate between real versus faux fur.
Coat: Lee Hasket Hat and pants: Anja Cecilia
“Scum. Shame. Scandalous. Fur.”
Runways have been crashed; red paint splattered across the hands and coats of customers, all for what? The beauty of fashion?
For an industry that prides itself on glamor and aesthetics, the fashion industry sure is ugly.
The topic of fur continues to stir controversy, twenty years after PETA protestors crashed the 2002 Victoria Secret show and jumped on the runway with signs reading, “Giselle: Fur Scum.” Then, 22-year-old model—Giselle Bündchen, had just signed a one hundred thousand dollar deal with the American fur company, Blackglama. Commenting on the matter, Gisele said, “I was in the hamster wheel…being a good girl and do[ing] what my agents t[old] me to do.” The backlash prompted Giselle to change the direction of her career. “You need to be responsible for the choices you make,” she said and shortly afterwards became an activist for animal rights.
Scandalous signage followed. During Christian Dior’s Fall/Winter 2003 ready-to-wear show, a protester crashed the catwalk with a “Fur Shame” sign.
Most recently, Italian fashion house Schiaparelli debuted a collection of faux animal heads adorned to garments during their FW23 show in New York. Daniel Roseberry, the current creative director of the brand, said his inspiration to be, “the glory of nature” with the intent of representing “lust, pride, and avarice.” However, this message was not received by the masses. The pieces were perceived as offensive and endangering, despite their synthetic nature. Such instances bring into question: is fur a friend or faux to the fashion industry?
The debate regarding the ethicality of real versus faux fur has designers divided.
Skirt: Berenice Diaz Hat: Anja Cecilia Shoes: ZEMETA
Although many have taken vows against the use of real fur, there is often a double standard when it comes to their usage of other animal byproducts, like leather.
Casey Cadwallader, the creative director of Mugler as of 2018, addressed this dilemma prior to his first show. Previously having worked for Loewe and J.Mendel, the designer’s expertise is in fur and leather. In reflection of his vision for the new Mugler, he said his goal was to make the brand “animal-free” and that “the day we can switch for sure would be amazing,” according to WWD. He hopes to utilize developing technology to create lab-produced leather and animal by-products.
As designers have begun to opt for artificially created fur, the ethicality remains largely questioned. Karl Lagerfeld, the late creative director behind Chanel’s modern revival, said, “Fake fur pollutes the world more than anything else.” The designer was notorious for his controversial opinions; however, this statement holds truth. Although real fur is not ethical, neither is faux fur due to its disastrous environmental impact.
Faux fur is composed of synthetic materials, usually acrylic and polyester, which require extensive amounts of energy and resources to create. This process then releases toxic non-biodegradable fibers, or microplastic when washed. The mass production of it contaminates waterways and landfills and is a major contributor to the climate crisis.
Real fur, however, is not an angel in comparison. Similarly, the factors of its production have environmentally disastrous effects. The farming of animals has a high offset rate for carbon dioxide emissions, and the toxic chemicals used whilst dyeing contribute to waterway contamination. Additionally, animals are harmed in the process and organizations like PETA campaign tirelessly against those who violate the rights of animals.
The whole debate of faux versus real fur may seem like a choice between two evils. However, ethical fur does exist—in the form of second-hand garments. Consumers who choose to source their fur, real or faux, second-hand avoid further harming the environment and animals.
(Left to Right) Look 1 Leg warmers: Berenice Diaz Look 2 Dress: Made 4 Bad Kidz Shoes: ZEMETA Look 3 Pants: Made 4 Bad Kidz Hat: Anja Cecilia Leg warmers: Berenice Diaz
However, in an industry that revolves around consumerism, ethics are, usually, forgotten.
The debate over fur transcends disputing designers, environmental effects, and animal activists. The fur and faux industries are quick to fight back against negative perceptions, relying on amassing high annual revenues and deceitfully marketing fur as sustainable. In 2019 alone, the production of faux and real fur increased by 120 percent reaching a value of $25 billion, according to Euromonitor International.
Politics also come into play as states across America, such as California, have begun introducing bills to ban fur. However, the fur debate is not just happening nationally. From a global perspective, Israel became the first country to prohibit fur sales in 2021. Within the industry, the British Fashion Council set the guideline that all London fashion week shows be fur-free, which has been in effect since 2019.
Consumers are increasingly demanding transparency and educating themselves, and the fur industry is feeling the wrath. Alternatives are being sought, to meet the demand for sustainable fashion.
Skirt: Berenice Diaz Hat: Anja Cecilia Shoes: ZEMETA
Long time anti-fur advocate and British designer, Stella McCartney, has recently embarked on a bio-based fur project with faux fur developer Ecopel. The French company creates faux fur from plants rather than plastics. Together, they debuted their first artificial fur coat at the Stella McCartney Summer 2020 show. “It’s about time that the fashion industry woke up to the fact that fur is cruel, barbaric, and simply incredibly old-fashioned and unfashionable,” said Stella McCartney to WWD.
Another emerging sustainable faux fur brand is New York based, House of Fluff. Specializing in cruelty-free high-fashion products, the brand launched their first bio-based fur collection, BioFur, in November 2020. The garments were composed of plants and recycled textiles and had been treated with an additive to help the synthetic fibers decompose.
Fashion is cyclic and constantly evolving, yet fur has consistently remained a relevant and classic piece on the runway and in the closets of many. In New York City, the streets are dominated by fur every Fall and Winter season; and this powerful piece of fashion doesn’t seem to be going out of style anytime soon. Rather than having fur as a friend or faux, one can refocus their gaze to recognize the harmful cycle of consumerism and be conscious of product life cycles when making future purchases.
Editor in Chief, Creative Dir: Pilar Bradley
Managing Editor: Nova Krasner
Editorial Dir: Nadia Adams
Senior Photo Dir: Phillip Lewis
Senior Beauty Dir: Gillian Tokar
Junior Photo Dir: Justice Tilford
Junior Fashion Dir: Brianna Tirado
Editor at Large: Madison Collins
Models: Amber Gidden, Jalen Fox, Selah Rogerson
Photographer: Nick DiBello
Stylist, Senior Fashion Dir: Monica Robles
Assistant Stylists: Dani Dipre, Jessica Anderson, Relly Lee
Makeup Artist: Maddy McDonald
Glam Assistant: Brooke Harry
Videographer, Production and Set Dir: Luna Abreia
Graphic Designer: Suma Deshpande
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